While working on a late 1960s Butterick dress in this same fabric (a lovely shirting weight linen from Fabric Mart, I created these sleeves. They are great sleeves, borrowed from another vintage pattern, Simplicity 5916, which was published in 1983. I started with the pattern piece from the envelope, and then lengthened it a bit, so that when I formed the elastic casing for the cuff, there would be a ruffle, too. And then, to echo some of the details of the Butterick dress, I wanted to add bows. So, naturally, I added a couple of yellow grommets to the casing, and added a little bow. Here, I’ll show you a picture:

When I decided to remove these sleeves from the Butterick dress, I knew I would still use them. Not only did they have a really fun shape and some cute details, but they took a lot of fabric to make! So I didn’t want to waste them. As I typed up this tutorial on how to make thin spaghetti strap cords, I let my mind wander….when else had I used grommets and lacing? On one of my very favorite vintage dresses, which I’ve made twice and never blogged about (I’ll write a post soon!), which laces up the front with grommets.

The reason I didn’t want the sleeves on the dress is because it made the whole thing overwhelming - too much fabric, too many details. So I knew I wanted to make an itsy bitsy top, and it would have grommets up the front. Now is when I’d like to tell you: you can do this with any super basic bodice pattern!! but I had a little flip through my pattern stash and pulled this one out:

I bought this pattern because the envelope illustrations are cute; I was mostly drawn to the tops. But looking at the pattern pieces made me realize I would never wear it as drafted: it requires a separating zipper up the center back, which seems wildly impractical. I’d probably never reach for it. What would make these cute tops easy to wear would be: a panel of elastic shirring in the back (easy change!) or a center front closure (also easy!). I decided on the latter, of course. Since I already had sleeves, I only needed the basic pattern pieces: center front, side front, side back, and center back.

I eliminated the back closure, which you could do for any bodice pattern with a center back zipper. Just remove the center back seam allowance, and cut that pattern piece on the fold. The result will be a solid back.

I fully lined the top with this vintage bed sheet. I honestly didn’t expect to love the fabric combination so much! It has a sweetness and makes the garment feel complete. I never really considered how I was going to hem this top, and because I wasn’t thinking about it, I set the grommets first, which limited my options a bit. I didn’t want to lose length, so I opted for some self bias binding. I love the look! It is also quite stable in this application, and keeps the hemline from stretching out when taking this top off/on.

When attaching the lining to the shell, I used 5/8” seam allowances as drafted, however, for the center front vertical seams only, I used 3/4” seam allowance. This allows for a wider gap at center front, so the lacings don’t quite touch. To be more modest, you could stick to the 5/8” seam allowance, or if you wanna show more skin, just take a wider seam allowance. Setting grommets is easy, but better explained in photos, so I will create a post on that asap, maybe even tomorrow.

This pattern came with sleeves and I may give them a try as drafted. They look cute! But I already had mine sewn up. Here is why I love Big 4 patterns - I have a 2019 bodice and a 1983 sleeve, and all sleeve notches and markings matched. They matched!! I was expecting to fudge it a bit, and with a super gathered sleeve, you have a lot of wiggle room, but that was completely unneccesary. What luck!

As soon as I had set the first sleeve, I knew it was True Love. The sleeve is so wonderfully drafted - the perfect amount of puff in all the right places! And I think the bow details make so much sense in this top.

If you’ve been following along on my Instagram stories, you know that when I opened the envelope to my vintage Butterick dress, a scrap of green gingham fabric floated to the floor. I almost cried, it felt so special to me, as I had just prepared my green gingham for the same pattern! My idea was to use that scrap as part of the label in that dress, but the way the facings are designed, there’s no way to visibly showcase it. Beyond that, that dress looks, to me, a bit more vintage than is my preference.

I love to sew vintage patterns in modern fabrics, and modern patterns in vintage fabrics. My aim is to create garments somewhere in between - sweet details from another time, with contemporary wearability. Hopefully timeless. So, to me, that dress has missed the mark just slightly (don’t worry, it’s a beautiful dress that I’m looking forward to wearing), but what that dress inspired - this top - is where I nailed my goal. So, to honor that seamstress of the past, who kept me inspired by tucking her scrap into her used pattern envelope, I pressed that little scrap, visibly mended the spot where it had been clipped by her scissors, and added my childhood sewing label (created circa 1996, I think my mom likely ordered them from a catalog for me).

The only thing I would possibly change is the length. I made my standard alteration of lengthening the bodice 1”, but I might add another inch next time. It works with these Lander Pants (the only non-elastic waist pants I’ve worn in self isolation, FYI), and I know I have some super high waisted summer pants, but I could do with another inch, for days I don’t want to reveal my entire torso. But overall? It’s a hit. It cheered me up! I’m gonna keep sewing! XO, Martha