My week of sewing only knits knocked me out of whatever funk I was experiencing and reminded me that sometimes, a simple, functional garment, in gorgeous fabric, is best. But just as I felt like myself again, life decided to throw something else at me - a toothache. Actually, a TEETHache, and all caps doesn’t come close to capturing the pain of it. I know you’re not here to read about my ongoing dental drama (don’t worry, I’ve found good care), but it does give context for my current mood. I’ve been exhausted and I absolutely don’t feel like getting dressed.

Though this is arguably the worst state of mind for clearing out one’s wardrobe, I did just that. I purged a few items that were beyond repair or not suitable for donation, and then I tried on all my dresses. I concentrated on the ones I reach for again and again, where the fabric and pattern are a perfect pairing, the fit is comfortable and I understand what shoes to wear. I noticed how much I gravitate towards silk. In my state of constant toothache, I wanted to make myself the gift of such a dress.

I’ve always enjoyed sewing a pattern more than once - it’s easier the second time for so many reasons: fitting is done! You know what works and what needs tweaking! You won’t forget stay stitching this time! - AND you know you like it! I own hundreds of patterns, and sewing one for the first time holds its own thrill, but since moving to Scotland, a land with neither Joann’s nor McCall’s amazing online sales (shipping is $$$), I don’t have the same access to new patterns. Which is not a bad thing.

Because something I realised during the clear out, is that my absolute favourite dresses (blouses, pants, and T-shirts), are ones that I’ve sewn more than once. I tried on my white cotton version of Vintage Simplicity 9259, which I love to wear with Vans and unkempt hair, and thought YEAH, this one! I took my corduroy mini version of the same pattern for a spin around the apartment and thought, yesss, this is a good pattern for me (that one is great with tights and anything from black suede clogs to Converse.

With that, I pulled out several cuts of silk from my stash (all purchased while living in NYC), and selected this beautiful sand washed cut. The fabric is very light, with a peach fuzz finish. Lovely!

Since I’ve sewn this before, several of the alteration were already present on my pattern tissue. But I made a few small changes for style, as well. Here are my pattern modifications:

• Lowered front neckline 1.5”.
• Lowered bust darts 1” and lengthened bodice 1” at same time (a standard adjustment for me - keeps the waistline in the intended spot for this pattern, which is slightly empire).
• Narrowed sleeve below the elbow, to be less bell shaped. Removed about 3” from circumference at cuff.
• Note to self: next time lower armhole ~3/8” or so.
• Added 3” to longest skirt length, plus a ruffle made up of my leftover fabric.

Since it’s silk, I went ahead and used French seams throughout. I don’t enjoy French seams, but I’ll admit they always look beautiful inside. My only regret is that next time I’d lower the armhole a little, maybe 3/8” - I’m not going to pick apart silk for a small tweak like that, but there will be a next time.

I pretty much always use my rolled hem foot to hem ruffles - I love how delicate and even it is. I also find it to be the fastest method, and when you’re dealing with miles of ruffles, that’s a huge selling point.

In this pic you can see how nicely invisible my zipper is, and I love adding a rouleau button loop. But I’d like to direct your attention to the topstitching. Having now sewn this dress three times, and other similar square neck dresses (Vintage McCall’s 3131 comes to mind), I can say with confidence: your facings WILL flip out. Go ahead and under stitch, tack them at the shoulder seams, etc. Whatever tricks you have, the flip is stronger. I assume that is why these patterns usually have you apply trim around the neckline, thereby topstitching the facings down, and hiding your topstitching.

I considered fully lining the bodice of this dress, but the silk is very light weight, and I wanted to fully enjoy how fluid it feels. If I could turn back time, I’d fully line it, but it’s not the end of the world. I top stitched 1.25” from the neckline, and it’s clean and functional, so I’m not fussed.

When I finished the dress, I wondered if it was a couple inches too long. I love midi length, but sometimes maxi can feel overwhelming to me. But when I tried the dress on, I just felt joy! I love it. It’s so silky and swirly. The length means I can wear it spring, autumn, or winter. I would like to make a long slip to add some warmth to my legs, though.

So there it is! A simple dress, from a tried & tested pattern and luxe silk. A winner! I enjoyed sewing this, and it DOES cheer me up to wear it. If you have some silk you’ve been saving up, consider using a pattern you already wear a lot! I bet you’ll love it. XO, Martha