SEWING PLANS FOR 2020 - DOES PROJECT PLANNING WORK?

Some of my most beloved fabrics! #futuredreamwardrobe

People often don’t believe me when I tell them I am an anxious person, but if you asked my mom, I’m sure she’d be happy to tell you that I f*cking lose my sh*t if I don’t know the plan. I like to know what is going to happen. I hate surprises. I want a plan and I want some assurance that we are going to stick to it.

So it’s a little shocking, even to myself, that I do not plan my sewing projects. I like to have a lot of patterns around (I’m at maximum capacity at 150, and now practice a one-in, one-out rule), and a fair amount of fabric on hand, because when it comes to sewing, I am impulsive. The practice of sewing is full of rules - cut on the grain; measure twice, cut once; match your plaids; press every seam - and frankly, I like that. But planning a strict list of what I have to make next feels opressive. You know what soothes my anxiety better than anything? Knowing I can make a ruffled silk blouse whenever I feel like it.

That being said, right now I have….maybe a bit too much fabric. And it’s really good fabric! Much of it was purchased with a project in mind. So, in the spirit of New Year New Me (lol what? I’m the same person, always), I am making myself some loose sewing plans. Emphasis on loose. But I think typing this up will help hold me accountable. Let’s see what’s in the stash….

Vogue 9328 is a great pattern. I know the cover is a little weird (that might be true for a lot of these), but Vogue Easy Options are usually excellent patterns. I have made View A minus the sleeve flounce twice - FYI the back has a bra-friendly circular cutout. I made it in a super cheap, black crepe with scattered white polka dots and wore it until that cheap fabric literally fell apart (seams slipped open, whole thing covered in pills). This time, I’m using gorgeous fabric from Emma One Sock, sourced from Reformation. It’s drapey viscose and I am super excited to wear this dress again.

McCall’s 7977 is one of my favorite patterns these days. I’ve sewn it twice and wear it often - I need to take some photos. I make View B, with added sleeve volume, and I don’t make the cuff, instead adding a simple elastic cuff. This fabric is a cotton lawn with silver metallic clipped polka dots. This will be worn all the time. I only like to sew white fabric when my sewing machine and serger are super clean….so maybe I’ll save all my light colors and do them as a batch.

Have you sewn the Ogden Cami by True Bias? If not, just go buy it now. You will not regret it. Excellent pattern!! I’ve sewn it 3 times!! Here is a creamy colored silk charmeuse I snapped up for $5/yard at my local discount shop. I’d like to dye it a pretty color and make myself 2 more Ogden camis (different colors).

Can you even with those ruffles?? This is my kinda blouse. It gives me Ulla Johnson vibes. It’ll need a narrow shoulder adjustment (usual for me). This lurex stripe Indian cotton lawn has been in my stash for a few years now. I’d like to dye it a soft color before sewing it up.

I bought McCall’s 7947 right when it was released because it gives me Daily Sleeper vibes, but I tucked it into my pattern files and kinda forgot about it. Then I saw Natalie Ebough’s version on instagram (if you don’t follow her, you should. She’s lovely & talented). She made a pink one out of Nani Iro double gauze and my brain melted, it was so gorgeous. So this will be my ode to her version. This fabric is a linen/polyester blend from Mood. The poly is a monofilament that gives the fabric a shimmery sheen and helps it hold volume - which I’m counting on to make the sleeves deliciously puffy.

I bought this Marc Jacobs silk/cotton voile at Mood specifically with Vintage Butterick 5311 in mind. But this morning, as I was sifting through my patterns, McCall’s 7946 stood out to me as a contender. This fabric is super light and sheer, which makes it a great candidate for gathering/shirring/etc., but that also means it might need a lining or a slip worn under it. That would be easy with the vintage pattern, but for the McCall’s, I’ll have to take a closer look at the pattern pieces to see what makes the most sense.

You know what would tie my entire wardrobe together and make my heart sing? Yes. A leopard coat. I splurged on this low pile leopard faux fur (it’s almost more of a multi-directional velvet) at Mood recently because I had accumulated a shameful number of points on my Mood card. Cashing in my points, it was half off! I have a pattern selected from this Japanese sewing book that I love so much! But I’ll need to make a muslin before cutting into such nice fabric….

No problem! I’ll use this 100% cotton twill that I picked up in Osaka last year to make an unlined version. Maybe I’ll Hong Kong finish all the interior seams in hot pink. This is an ideal “wearable muslin”.

Remember my cherry dress? I love my cherry dress. And it was so fun to sew. Next time I’m craving a marshmallowy confection of a sewing project, this is it. I’ll make the short version, plus a longish ruffle to make it midi length. And I’ll eliminate the fussy period cuff, and replace it with my preferred elastic casing cuff. I might make the sleeve a big full balloon WHY NOT!? Fabric is the most gorgeous Liberty Tana Cotton Lawn from Fabric.com. This is an expensive fabric, but once you use it, you’ll understand why. It’s luxurious. Pro Tip: hold out for a Fabric.com sale, I bought this for 50% off on Black Friday, and they have an extensive offeering of Tana Lawn prints.

Lightening round aka I don’t know what to do with these fabrics, but I know I want to use them:

1. Black & White polka dots. I bought both colorways of this 4 ply poly crepe because it is slinky perfection. I’d like to make palazzo pants from the black one, and a simple tank from the white one (something slimmer, maybe with a zipper). I’d love to sew these up soon, I just don’t have patterns selected yet.

2. These purple fabrics have both been in my stash forever. The purple is a silk brocade that cost one million dollars. I bought it maybe 7-8 years ago and never felt comfortable cutting into it. I do now! Just need a good sleeveless blouse pattern. The fuschia crepe is also an expensive luxe fabric I purchased before I was sewing often. I don’t know what on earth I could use it for, but it’s delicous. One day!

3. This orchid silk is bonkers: it’s waffle weave! so it has natural stretch (from the weave structure). They have this fabric at Mood for $35/yard, but my local discount shop had it for $5/yard, so I did the sensible thing and purchased 7 yards. Totally reasonable, right?? I’m thinking a tiered dress.

4. This green polka dot is from a shop in Japan. I wish you could feel it. It is polyester but feels like silk. It is so lightweight, drapey, peach skinned, ooh! It was $5/meter. I have no idea what to do with it. It would be a luxurious coat lining, but I think it deserves to be a summer dress.

By now are you like, wtf is wrong with this girl, she needs some black pants?? Listen, photo of a pile of black fabric isn’t going to inspire either of us. This month (January 2020) I have sewn myself: one pair black Lander pants, one black Wiksten Haori, one black Ogden Cami, one black Ogden Cami extended to be a slip, one pair black corduroy overalls (I’ve worn them almost every day, blog post imminent). I sew that stuff, too. But I don’t need to add it to any list. I usually think, “oof, I need more black pants”, and then I do it up real quick. Get it over with. Wear it every day!

Now is also a good time to mention that I don’t plan “outfits”. I am so particular about colors, textures, and silhouettes, that I know most things I sew will mix and match easily. This did NOT come easily, and I still occasionally buy a fabric on a whim that isn’t going to incorporate well, but overall, I know what I like, and it tends to work together. Also, a dress can be a wardrobe standalone, something frivolous that is never worn with any other garments, so it doesn’t matter too much.

Anyway, I’ve got 3 yards of a lovely black linen destined to become a summer dress, and some black Ventana Cotton Twill that I’m sure will become some kind of jeans. I love wearing solid black and solid white, so those are always in the mix, too.

Ok, last thing on my sewing to-do list: pajamas. Pajamas are easy to sew and you will wear them more than anything. I have to keep telling myself that. I just don’t care much about making them (and I’m a pretty serious pajama-wearer). The fabric on the left is from a neighborhood shop and was super cheap, and on the right is a lurex striped cotton double guaze from Stonemountain & Daughters. I have SO MANY vintage pajama patterns (I love to make them as “regular” clothes), so I guess I’m challenging myself to sew these cuts into sleep suits.

That’s all for now! I’d love to crush this list. I’ll probably get distracted and sew something totally different….or maybe not. Wish me luck. XO, Martha