CORDUROY CONFECTION - A Vintage Inspired Paisley Corduroy Dress
I’ve had a lot of end of year anxiety, how about you? Would 2020 want us to go out any other way? Well, sewing is one of my greatest stress relievers, so I turned to it.
I have not been able to follow my most recent sewing plans. Well, I made 2 of the pairs of pants, and hated them both (patterns are fine…just not my style). That didn’t feel great. Then I impulsively sewed my Galaxy jacket (not on list) and cut out the purple corduroy jumpsuit (on the list but), then proceeded to stare at that cut out jumpsuit every day for 2 weeks. I just stalled out and wasn’t getting the satisfaction I craved. So I turned to the thing that always does the trick for me: sewing a vintage dress pattern.
First, I had to select my fabric. I’ve been in the mood for corduroy - I did cut out that jumpsuit (and hope to circle back to it), and I used it for the under collar on the Galaxy jacket. It’s a cozy fabric and it’s been on trend since this fall. When I saw this cheerful paisley printed pinwale corduroy at Stone Mountain & Daughter Fabric store, I had to order some.
Pinwale corduroy, sometimes called needlecord, is pretty light weight. You could certainly make pants, but it is also appropriate for a shirt or dress. It is cottony and holds volume well. When I pre-washed it, it fluffed up a bit.
Now for the pattern. When I sewed my cherry print dress with vintage Simplicity 5956, I posted a review on Pattern Review. One of the lovely comments I received on the review was, “This takes me back in time! We called them 'granny gowns' in the day. My favourite was in orange pinwale corduroy. Thanks for a great review and for reviving some memories.” This comment has lived in my mind rent free ever since! While my fabric isn’t orange, it is corduroy. Let’s get this party started.
While it would be fun to make Simplicity 5956 again, I wasn’t vibing on a corduroy ruffled high neckline. So my first instinct was to grab Simplicity 9259. Conveniently, both patterns were clearly drafted on the same block, so comparing them and tweaking from there was simple. I also have to mention vintage McCall’s 3131, which for me, is inextricably linked to 9259 (see this post for a comparison of those patterns).
Details I cherry picked from those patterns, and combined to make this dress: a lowered square neckline (both front and back), a midriff piece to accentuate the waist, no puff at the sleeve head, a voluminous sleeve with an elastic cuff. These are all sort of basic pattern elements that you could find on other existing patterns - you could change the neckline of a bodice you already like, and slash and spread a sleeve to achieve this volume. Since I mostly sew vintage dresses, that’s where I started.
Once I had those basics in place, I lowered the front neckline 2” (as I did here), and lowered the back neckline… well quite a bit - it’s drafted as a high round neckline. I just sort of eyeballed it and made sure it was above my bra. I added bias cut ties to hold the shoulders in place. Who doesn’t love a bow!
I used an invisible zipper, and added a lining to the skirt. This fabric will stick to your bare legs a little bit, and if you wear tights, forget it, it’s like velcro. So I added a rayon Bemberg skirt lining.
Small rant: I hate rayon. It’s personal - I just can’t stand the way it feels, to me it’s like touching a mircofiber towel. Rayon challis is my top offender, so I don’t have any in my wardrobe. That being said: I will sometimes line skirts in Bemberg, and in spite of my dislike of it, it is static free and glides over everything. It’s a great lining fabric.
When I add a lining to a skirt like this, I add a thread chain at each side seam near the hem, connecting the skirt and the lining. This will ensure your lining won’t ride up or twist around your body as you walk. I just quickly crochet these loops with a few strands of heavy thread.
The back detail was a simple pattern adjustment but it makes a big impact. I will definitely do this again. I adjusted the front and back facings to match my new neckline.
This was such a satisfying project. Because, back to that anxiety. This project didn’t challenge me any more than I wanted it to, and I think it’s important to find that sweet spot for yourself. We need successful projects to keep us motivated. I love to sew a fairly simple dress, with a few new elements - enough to feel new, but not so much I get bogged down or overwhelmed.
The corduroy was super easy to work with, and I’d sewed all those patterns I mentioned before, so I knew the bodice would fit well. The sleeves are just as balloon-y as I could have dreamed! I almost didn’t add the midriff piece, but I’m so glad I did, because it defines the waist and lowers the waistline to hit at just the right spot. I didn’t add pockets because, quite frankly, I don’t care that much if my dresses have pockets, but they would have been a good addition here. Maybe next time!
Because there will be a next time! I’m so pleased with this dress. And I think I might be ready to get back to short skirts. Not as short as I used to wear (guys, they were short), but feels good to mix it up with a fresh length. Have you sewn a corduroy dress? How about a granny gown? Don’t be scared, be cozy. XO, Martha