SOMETIMES YOU NEED A CREAM PUFF: VINTAGE SIMPLICITY 5916 IN LIBERTY TANA COTTON LAWN

I’m writing this from day 19 of self isolation. I think we are all feeling restless, uncertain, anxious, cooped up. I am worried about what the future holds: what will New York look like “after”? I have learned that all of the brands where I regularly freelance have either done paycuts, layoffs, or shuttered their business entirely. I don’t know about you, but as it has sunk in that the news will continue to be negative, I need some levity. It has come to me in these forms: watching horror movies (big plus if it’s about a virus…..sorry, I can’t explain this dark method of confronting my fears), and sewing total frosting & fluff. I set up my sewing machine in the living room, so I can do these activities at the same time. Yes, I sewed this dress while watching exclusively Zombie content.

My quarantine sewing started out easy breezy - simple patterns, no serger, some pajamas. But as days flipped past, I decided I need something more complex. A puzzle that required advanced planning, pinning and basting. Lots of fussy bits. So here we are.

I’ve had this pattern in my stash for a few years. When I wasn’t sewing as often as I have been more recently, I would still search for patterns on Etsy and eBay late at night. I love finding patterns from the year I was born, 1983. That is the year this pattern is from. It feels very current, hopeful, and Spring-y; plus I needed something frivilous to distract me from current events.

It reminds me a bit of Batsheva dress (she is of course highly inspired by Laura Ashley, no doubt one of the inspirations for this pattern), and Horror Vacui, a German line that uses Liberty Tana Cotton Lawn for many of their designs.

Which brings us to the fabric: I used Liberty Tana lawn that I purchased from fabric.com during their Black Friday sale. I think they have the widest selection of Liberty cotton prints available online in the USA. During the sale, this print was 50% off if I purchased 5 yards or more….so I bought 6 yards. Tana lawn is a pleasure to work with; it’s a well behaved cotton that drapes almost like it has silk in it. I sew it with a microtex needle and silk pins. It’s a splurge you won’t regret. In fact, this gift to myself keeps on giving: I still have 2.5 yards left which is enough to sew another dress or a blouse (that’s how I made this photo backdrop).

When I pulled out this pattern, I checked the pattern pieces to make sure it was complete. As is my preference, I bought this vintage pattern already cut out (I prefer it because I’m lazy when it comes to cutting, they’re cheaper, and I like seeing how another seamstress used the pattern - they often leave notes). This envelope contains only size 12 (34” bust), which is my usual size for current and most vintage Big 4 patterns. Vintage patterns have less ease than current ones, so if you aren’t used to sewing them, make a muslin first to check the fit.

My plan was to sew View 3, which features a “petal neckline and elbow length sleeves with tucks”, and to my delight, the previous owner had cut out View 3! She added 3/5” seam allowance to all vertical seams, bringing the seam allowance to 1” - something most commonly done to allow for alterations. I wonder if she sewed this dress for herself or someone else. I didn’t need the additional allowance, and just trimmed it off.

This pattern has very good instructions and all markings and notches matched. I haven’t sewn a ton of 1980s patterns, and based on this one, I will look out for more! All steps are well illustrated, with great directions for gathering, basting, and clipping seams (a lot of curves). This pattern has some fiddley bits, but it follows a fairly typical, straightforward dress construction.

I had never sewn a “petal collar” before, and I love it. It’s a bit softer and more open than a ruffle collar (which I also love). The petals are fully faced, and both sides are visible. It is both floppy, and structured, which is nice.

The pattern instructs you to make the zipper go to the top of the neck band, but I prefer to have buttons on the neckband. So I inserted 2 rouleau button loops, made from very narrow bias cut tubes of self fabric. The buttons are from my favorite button shop in Osaka, Japan. I hope I can go back one day, and buy so many more buttons. I dream about it!

Let’s talk about the sleeve. This is the most tremendous sleeve I have ever sewn: giant, cut on the bias, with a “sleeve heading” inside of it to keep it poufed, and then slimmed back down on the bicep with a tuck (pleat). *chef’s kiss* I added a 1” tall ruffle to the shoulder seam, hey, why not!?

I found the armhole a bit tight, so lowered it 1/4” at the side seam, a minor adjustment that improves the the comfort of a somewhat formal bodice.

Here you can see the sleeve heading. It is not a shoulder pad. It is attached in the armscye, but sits inside the sleeve. I used a finely woven white poplin from stash. Usually I would use self fabric, but I didn’t want the print to show through. This white fabric holds the shape very well.

You can also see that I finished interior seams with a 3 thread narrow overlock.

My fitting adjustments to this pattern were simple. I lowered the bust dart 1” as usual, however I did not lengthen the bodice at all (I usually lengthen it 1”). The style for this dress is long waisted and I probably could have even shortened the bodice a touch. I think it is quite flattering as drafted. I used scraps to make my sash, so it is more narrow and longer than the pattern piece, but once you wrap the waist with the sash, the overall look is lovely.

As for the skirt, I added a significant amount of fullness. I didn’t measure, but I used almost the whole width of the fabric for both front and back. Because Tana lawn is so fine and drapes so well, you can make it quite full without creating an overly bulky seam. I made the skirt curved at the side seams (not rectangles as drafted) so that it is slimmer at the waist and more full at the hem. I shortened the skirt 4” and added a 6” ruffle, which I hemmed with my rolled hem foot.

I eliminated pockets (pattern includes them), because I do not like when pocket bags show through (they showed through in the print, and glowed brightly when I tried it with solid white fabric). And anyway, sorry to go against the grain….but I don’t always think dresses should have pockets.

I enjoyed the process of sewing this dress so much - much needed fluff and it was a bit of a challenge. I would happily sew another view of the dress. It might like the sort of thing you don’t need two of, but I find it to be very wearable! Part of that is the fabric, but also, the style just lifts my mood. I’d love to try view 4.

In conclusion, this was just the cream puff I needed. Indulgence in a time when we are all staying home, praying that everyone we know and love is safe. I hope you are safe. If you are sewing, make yourself something silly, puffy, and ruffley if you think it will cheer you up. You can wear it to a fancy zoom dinner in your apartment, or to water your house plants on Easter, which will pass like any other day. It’s ok. It will get you ready to wear it out and about when that’s allowed again. XO Martha