A BLOUSE FOR ALL SEASONS: McCALL'S 7977 FOUR WAYS

Hanging out with my stash! I’m wearing one of my older Buried Diamond charm necklaces, I hand made it.

I recently sewed two version of this blouse, back to back, and fast. It’s McCall’s 7977 and it’s a TNT (tried & tested) pattern that I love having in my wardrobe! I bought this pattern right when it came out, because I cannot resist a ruffle, and because it reminds me of Ulla Johnson’s ruffled, feminine blouses. I could immediately imagine myself wearing it.

When I posted my process for sewing this crisp white cotton version (it has silver metallic clipped dots!) in my instagram stories, a few people messaged me to comment on how quickly I was sewing it. It only takes me a few hour to sew this top, but here’s the catch: there are no shortcuts in sewing, no “hacks”. Well maybe there are a few ways to speed things up, but it is almost always true that the best, cleanest way to sew something is the “right” way.

I am almost entirely self taught in sewing, and I will tell you what I have read and been told over and over again: make a muslin! Oh, you don’t like to? Neither do I! Probably no one likes it! But the muslin is where you make your mistakes. Then, you wear it, and after a few wearings, you realize you’d like to tweak the measurements here and there. Through repetition, you improve. Each time you execute a pattern, or even just one technique, you hone your skill. And before you know it, you have your favorite garment, and you can make it quickly, without flaws.

I will admit, I don’t usually make a muslin, because I have a firm grasp of the flat pattern adjustments I typically need for a pattern. But for this blouse, I knew I’d want to use expensive fabric, so I kicked things off with a muslin sewn out of very cheap (both in price and quality) cotton/poly gingham from my neighborhood fabric shop, Fulton Fabrics.

I started with my usual Big 4 size 12 and made some of my typical flat pattern adjustments, that I know I will need, no matter what. I lengthened the bodice 1” at the lengthen/shorten line. I used bias tape to face the neckline, because I can’t think of anything more stupid than easily avoidable neckline facing, and won’t make them even on a muslin. I also lengthened the sleeve by 3” and eliminated the cuff, opting instead for my preferred elastic casing at the cuff. I also added 1.5” width to the sleeve, because I knew I would want additional fullness. I cut the neckline at size 6 (lowest neckline on the pattern) and cut the shoulder armscye at size 6 as well (most narrow shoulder).

I was pleased with the overall shape and fit, but it still needed a few tweaks: the neckline was too high and the shoulders too wide (both to be expected from Big 4 patterns for me); I messed up the center front point/ruffle and had to pick it out and do it again (resulting in a perfect point!); and I didn’t love how the center back opening was drafted, though it is nice that you cut the back piece on the fold.

Overall, not bad! Ready for my “good” fabric.

This is an Anna Sui printed cotton lawn from Mood. I wanted it for a different project, but even when I bought every inch left on the bolt, it wasn’t enough. I was really attached to this fabric, because I love the print. Well. This fabric was a nightmare: 54” wide, but only printed 45” wide, and printed wildly off grain - super wiggly end of the bolt. To top it off, I thought the flowers looked sideways. After washing, pulling, pressing, fussing....I cut it cross grain and thanked my stars I didn’t save this print for a more special project.

For this version, I made the changes mentioned above. I further lowered the neckline a 1/2” and made a 5/8” narrow shoulder adjustment, which FYI gives you a narrow margin of error when attaching the sleeve. Be careful of getting the ruffle caught in your seam! I still cut the back on the fold, but determined I really don’t like how the center back opening is cut in a teardrop shape and bound with bias tape. So I decided I wouldn’t do that in future versions.

Since sewing this version, I have worn it frequently. It has become a go-to top for me, so I knew I would want a crisp, plain(ish) white version in my closet. At some point, I bought some white cotton poplin with silver lurex clipped dots at Mood, specifically to use for this blouse. But, as usual, I got distracted and didn’t sew it for months.

Ahh, you can finally see this fabric!

At this point, I just knew what to do! I cut the back as 2 separate pieces, facilitating a very easy slit at center back for the neckline opening. I added a rouleau button loop. I made the sleeves 1” longer and the ruffle about 3” longer (mostly just to use up every scrap of this fabric!). And I added another 1” to the bodice length.

That’s it! I sewed it quickly and confidently. Even the fussy bit where you are cliping and flipping the center front around to create that sharp V. Practice makes perfect, and I think I nailed it here.

Which brings us to my final (for now) version. I used embroidered eyelet scraps left over from this project, and my remnant of Liberty Tana lawn from this dress (I still have enough left for another small project!).

For this blouse, I used all of my previous modifications, but I also chopped up the pattern and added seam allowances to accomodate piecing my fabrics together. Additionally, the interior finishing of this version and the white version are super clean, which comes with practice. I will write another post soon, showing all the details, because I’m really pleased with how this blouse came out.

In conclusion, this is a great pattern! You could use a light weight knit, or a more drapey woven, or of course, a crisp cotton. I still think cotton lawn is the ideal weight and crispness for this pattern, but who knows….I’ve probably got a few more versions in me! Let me know if you make this one! XO Martha