How Much Fabric Should I Buy? How to determine how many yards to purchase when you don't have a project in mind
It’s happened all of us: you’re out shopping for something you actually need - black twill, or maybe white cotton shirting - and something sparkly catches your eye. Well, maybe not sparkly, but irresistible. A fabric you *must* have in your stash! You know you’re going to buy some, but without a project in mind, how much?
I get asked this question all the time, because I tend to sew with fabrics that have been simmering in my stash for months, or more often, years. If something tickles my fancy, I buy it, and figure the rest out later.
How much fabric should you buy if you don’t have a project in mind? Deciding how many yards is more of an art than a science. Since this simple question warrants a complex answer, I’m going to give you some questions to ask yourself as you’re making this decision, to aid you in determining how many yards your future self will need.
What would you use this fabric for?
Pinch it between your fingers, drape it across your body. Is this a dress? Or a pair of pants?
For the sake of this exercise, it’s a dress making fabric, but adjust your thinking for materials better suited for a coat, jeans, a t-shirt, etc.
What kind of dress do you like to wear?
A body skimming, mini length shift? Or a billowing, multi-tiered maxi? Study the back of pattern envelopes for the kinds of patterns you have in mind, and trends will emerge: 2 yards for mini dress, 4-5 yards for a long sleeved maxi. Commit these general amounts to memory.
What size are you sewing?
This is a practical consideration. Someone 5’ tall will require less fabric than someone 5’10”; a size 8 dress has a different material requirement than size 18.
How wide is the fabric?
This is a major consideration! You can get a lot more out of 58” wide fabric than 44” wide. If a pattern requires 5 yards of 44” wide fabric, I can usually make it happen with 3 yards of 58” wide. There’s some guesstimating involved, but remember to check the width, and get a little extra if the fabric is narrow.
Do you like to cut it close, or have extra to play with?
If you’re someone who enjoys the thrills of pattern Tetris and zero usable scraps, you can buy a little less. If, like me, you prefer to have left over fabric “just in case”, or enjoy making more than one project from the same fabric, add a little extra to your order. On a related note, if you’ll be doing any pattern matching or plaid matching, I’d recommend an additional 1/2 yard beyond the usual requirements.
How much does it cost?
Only you know your budget! Don’t go overboard, you might regret it. But if you find something for a steal, let it rip!
Is it rare?
If I find something dazzlingly special, that I know I’ll never see again, I factor that rarity it into my calculations. Vintage, designer dead stock, or fabrics spotted while traveling can be once in a lifetime finds. I’d rather put back a more ordinary fabric and spend my budget on the special stuff. That being said, make sure it’s something you will sew, and wear! It’s no good to you languishing on the shelf!
These are the questions that run through my mind when I’m out shopping. Are there any other considerations you make at the fabric store? Let me know. And happy shopping!
XO, Martha