ORANGE WOOL CHORE JACKET

My finished orange wool jacket on a cold, windy fall day.

Last spring, I saw some blaze orange Woolrich brand 100% wool coating fabric listed on FabricMart. I added it to my cart, but didn’t purchase, hoping it would go on sale before selling out. A few days later, a Wool sale popped up, and I snagged it!

Though I didn’t sew this jacket right away (mostly because we bought a house and moved), I knew I wanted to make a chore jacket to wear around our rural property during fall and winter. Fall rolled around, and suddenly, it was time to sew it up!

I kept things simple, allowing the rounded edges and top stitching to shine.

When sewing this coat, I planned for all my personal preferences:

• A slightly oversized collar, with good structure and a definite roll line.

• Large pockets.

• Good fit through the shoulders.

• Fully lined.

• Big buttons!

Based on coats I’ve previously sewn for myself, I knew the blend of patterns I’d use to achieve the desired look, plus a few easy things to draft myself.

I made adjustments, but started off with this pattern. It is a simple shape and construction.

The base pattern is vintage Simplicity 5285, which I have sewn before, but not documented on this blog (will remedy soon!). Shortened, it would come close. I had already drafted facings and a full lining (pattern is for an unlined jacket).

In addition to my interfacing selection, I used decorative top stitching to define the roll line and structure of the collar. The result is awesome - it always keeps its shape.

I grafted on my favorite collar, a pattern piece I’ve tweaked over the years of using it. The original pattern pieces are from my favorite Japanese sewing book. I also drafted simple, oversized patch pockets. The pockets and flaps are fully lined in very light weight, orange polyester lining fabric.

I opted for “speed tailoring” ie using fusible interfacings. I like a well fused jacket, but lightened up on interfacing for this one compared to some coats I’ve made. I added fusible weft insertion interfacing to the jacket fronts, upper back, upper shoulder, and all hems. I added a structured woven interfacing to the collar, and further accentuated the roll line and stand with top stitching.

Big pockets hold my phone and gloves while I do yardwork. They fit my hands, but patch pockets are never my favorite for that purpose.

Construction-wise, this is a simple jacket. Drop shoulders go in smoothly, patch pockets are simple, the lining is fully bagged. Top stitching is the most defining detail (besides the electric color). I used top stitching thread for maximum impact.

I kept the sleeve tabs from the Simplicity pattern. I love them! They add fun heft to the sleeves.

I made a few practice buttonholes at home - this jacket’s casual vibe means I prefer sewn buttonholes over something like bound ones. Since I have access to professionally sewn buttonholes in Manhattan, that is what I opted for (Jonathan Embroidery Plus, 256 West 38th street, walk-ins welcome. Cash only). It is important to mark the hole placement clearly, but then you get incredibly well sewn buttonholes every time. Profesh!

There are no seams or details on the back of this jacket, something I might opt to change if I used this pattern again in the future.

For the lining I opted for the first fabric I was attracted to when planning this project. A galaxy print viscose twill from Mood - likely intended to be used for a dress or blouse, but imho a little heavy for that. I bought the end of the bolt from the Manhattan store. Usually I go for a bright colored lining, but this felt fun, and the fabric feels great.

The jacket came out exactly as I had envisioned, and quickly. I did minimal hand sewing, which is unusual for my approach to outerwear, but I loved the experience.

It is relatively lightweight, which I intended so I can start wearing it in early autumn. The style is boxy enough that it layers well over sweaters and a puffer vest to extend the wearing season. All in all, it is a welcome color and style in my closet! XO, Martha

If you missed it, here is my post about what I did with my remnant of this orange wool!