PATTERN:

Simplicity 8797 - per the envelope: "with its classic lapels and easy fit, this lined Misses' coat has the look of a comfortable oversized coat. The coat features four lengths and a one-button closure."

*The texture of this wool seemed weird at first, but has grown on me. I love the textural contrast with the lining and button.*

SIZING:

Sizes XS (6-8), S (10-12), M (14-16), L (18-20), XL (22-24) are all in one envelope.

In my experience, when Big 4 patterns are sized in this method, each letter size (S, M, L, etc) is actually the larger numerical size. I.e. size M is size 16; size L is size 20; etc. This accounts for people who say the patterns "run large" if they would feel more comfortable in a 14 or 16. Regardless, much of the ease in this pattern is for style - the intended fit is oversized.

I graded between sizes to achieve my desired fit.

*I love the slightly exaggerated proportion of the lapel on this coat.*

WHAT DREW ME TO THIS PATTERN:

Classic, simple shape with nice, slouchy proportions.

*I bagged the lining for a clean & easy finish.*

*The same corner, turned right side out. This is one of my favorite little details on a coat.*

INSTRUCTIONS:

This pattern includes solid instructions with nice details like catch stitching your hems. But some other details are neglected.

*I had fun with a decorative blanket stitch around my label and the lining. I also added a grosgrain hanging loop.*

For example, the shell of the coat and the lining are not attached anywhere other than the top stitching around the edges. Sewing through all layers at the collar will create a much more stable and long lasting garment. Without doing so, it's like a big floppy pocket and your coat will not wear well over time.

As is often the case with Big 4 patterns, I found the drafting to be solid, markings matched as expected, and the instructions were uneven but get the job done.

*I love the contrast in textures between the fuzzy wool, smooth leopard print silk, and the dazzling glass button.*

MATERIALS:

My black wool fabric came from a fabric swap, so I don't know its full origin. A burn test confirms it is 100% protein fiber. I would guess it is mostly wool, with a touch of something else. Alpaca? Something like that. It feels expensive. The fabric face has been brushed and slightly felted, creating an almost pilled surface. It is very lofty and warm.

*Seam ripping a shirred dress to repurpose the fabric was time consuming, but in the end, the leopard print silk lining steals the show. Worth it!*

Leopard print silk CDC lining is from Fabric Mart, years ago. I sewed a simple dress and kept all my scraps. I was going to use the scraps for some piping and then thought, I bet if I take the dress apart, I can make a lining with it. It worked! The main pieces are large panels from the dress, the sleeve linings are pieced quite a bit, but no one will ever know.

*I regret not using hair canvas and pad stitching on the collar and lapel. The collar especially could use more structure. Here you can see the fusible weft interfacing I used.*

Interfacings from stash - I mostly used fusible weft.

Buttons are antique Czech glass via Etsy. The large button in the front is 1.5” and the back buttons are 1”.

*I cut my coat at the length for view C.*

FLAT PATTERN ADJUSTMENTS:

• I blended sizes: The shoulder down to the waist is size S, from the waist I blended to L at the hip and hem.

• Sleeve is cut as size S through the armscye, grading to M from the bicep down. I love a very wide sleeve on my coats.

• Added a back neckline facing. Not sure why this isn’t included in the pattern.

*Welt pockets and a bound buttonhole are worthwhile upgrades to this pattern.*

DESIGN CHANGES:

• Made a large bound buttonhole and reinforced the lips with a non-stretch cording.

*After making the bound buttonhole, I basted it closed with silk thread until the end of construction.*

• Added large, slanted welt pockets. These have big pocket bags and are easy to find with your hands.

• In addition to back neckline facing, I modified the lining to have a 2” deep center back dart, and a deeper jump pleat at the hem. Both of these changes will help the coat have better wearing ease over time. I added a decorative patch behind my label and a grosgrain ribbon loop for easy hanging.

CONSTRUCTION NOTES:

• A goal I set for myself with this project was “Keep It Soft” - I wanted the coat to feel light and unstructured. I achieved this! It is lofty and lightweight, especially for how warm it is, however, I wish I’d used heavier interfacing in the collar. You can’t beat hair canvas and pad stitching. I added a line of top stitching along the roll line to help force the fold, it works well and looks nice.

*I had my doubts about a printed lining! But I love it.*

• I hand stitched through ALL LAYERS of the coat along the neckline - anchoring it all together - as well as through the shoulder seams/facing layers. This adds a good amount of stability to the coat, especially if I choose to hang it by the grosgrain loop I added to the back neckline.

*I almost left off this back belt - I’m glad I included it! Here is it pinned in place. In the end, I used 1” Czech glass buttons to anchor it.*

THOUGHTS AFTER SEWING:

I probably won’t sew this again because there are other coat patterns I want to try, but I recommend the pattern to anyone. This would be a good early/first coat pattern, though I’d recommend keeping a Tailoring book next to you as you go to supplement the instructions. The pattern has nice proportions and a very wearable result - even without my changes it would be a great winter coat.

CONCLUSION:

I love the coat! I didn’t have a plain black coat of this length in my closet, and this ended up being warmer than expected (big win!). I’m going to add some brooches to the lapel. Looking forward to frequent wearing this winter.

XO,

Martha

CLASSIC, COZY, & OVERSIZED: SIMPLICITY 8797 PATTERN REVIEW