I present to you my finished Vintage McCalls 9361! Let’s have a look at all of the details - both the finished project and pattern. To see some of my planning and Work in Progress of this blouse, check out my previous post.

The clean finished placket has 1/4” seam allowances, and encloses the gathered edge of ruffles - not for the faint of heart.

THE PATTERN:

From the back of the envelope:

"Miss's Shirtdresses and Loungewear or Sleep Shirts with Bikini. A, C, D and F have ruffles of self fabric. B and E have ruffles of purchased Edging or Lace. Ruffles D and F may be hemmed or finished with Narrow Trim. Matching Bikini is worn with B or E. A, B, D and E have extra width, also back pleat, for sleeping. C and F are regular dress width."

The cover of this pattern is simply delightful!

SIZING:

I chose McCall’s 7723 (copyright 2018) to use for comparison because I have sewn it before and it has an easy fit.

I compared 9361 to a Copyright 2018 McCall’s blouse pattern from my stash, that to my eye had a similar amount of ease. When I overlaid the main pattern pieces, they were surprisingly similar (both cut at size 12). The most notable difference was the vintage pattern had a much higher armscye. I thought I might need to lower the seam in the armpit, but I actually prefer this fit than the one I got from M7723.

INSTRUCTIONS:

This pattern assumes that the maker has a fair amount of dressmaking experience under her belt, and suggests that you reference McCall's newest sewing book if you require further guidance (good advice imho!). I found the instructions to be very good, though as is still the case with Big 4 patterns, uneven.

SEAM ALLOWANCES:

For example, this pattern calls for French seams, which are clearly and concisely explained. But then when it's time to sew the cuffs, you just get "assemble the cuffs as you did the collar" - but cuff and collar are constructed completely differently, with different seam allowances and finishings. In retrospect, I think I understand how I was supposed to make the cuffs. But I did it my own way, and they look great, so I'm not sweating it.

Anywhere calling for French seams has a 5/8" seam allowance; everywhere else has a 1/4" seam allowance. So you better be accurate!

The sleeves are shorter than I prefer, but in the end, they are fine, maybe “bracelet length”.

PATTERN MARKINGS:

Tissue is well marked with seam lines, notches, dots, and ruffle/trim placement markings. But the Cutting list is a place where experience is necessary: the collar is labelled "Cut 1", but you in fact need two of that piece. You also need to cut interfacing. In the directions, interfacing and facing are mentioned - it is assumed that the reader has made a collar before and is following the typical order of operations.

Pattern includes stay stitching and basting instructions, overall it guides you towards good sewing habits.

Coco likes to be involved in everything I do. You can see here how the sleeves are a little short.

ADDITIONAL THOUGHTS:

Personally, I don't think a pattern owes you comprehensive instructions on every technique involved in the project, and I like to reference books if I get stuck, which this pattern suggests. So I really liked these instructions and found them adequate.

WHY THIS PATTERN?

The design is fabulous!!

I have been playing around with edge finishes on my serger. I've been particularly smitten with the 3 Thread Rolled Hem, so I wanted to find a way to show off this technique. My mind immediately went to this pattern, which has been in my collection for a while.

The rolled hem on the bias cut fabric makes a wonderful ruffle.

I collect, sew, and wear a lot of vintage nightgown patterns. I like to make them as day dresses. Many nightgown patterns are designed for a more casual home sewist - simple, boxy fit, nothing too tricky. It was a delight to find a nightgown pattern that offered a sewing challenge!

MATERIALS:

Gauzy, lightweight cotton fabric found at an antique mall. I paid $12 for 4 yards, and the fabric is only 30" wide. This was *exactly* the right amount of fabric for this project.

Buttons purchased in Osaka, Japan at LOGIC Atelier Shop.

FLAT PATTERN ALTERATIONS:

• Lengthened bodice 1" above the apex (standard alteration for me). Bust shaping has all been rotated into a long dart that is concealed by the ruffles. I considered lowering the apex of the dart, but left is as is.

• Lengthened sleeve 1" and added 3/4" width at bicep.

The pleat is designed to be released starting about 3” down from the neckline. The pattern mentions that the pleat should be included for sleepwear for extra movement.

• This pattern includes different options for almost every piece - front and back bodices each have 3 pieces, with very minor changes, there are 2 sleeve options, etc. I chose a view with a deep pleat at Center Back. In retrospect I think I would prefer the version without the pleat. Pattern has you stitch down the pleat until about 3" below the neckline, but I stitched mine down about 10" to cut down on the billowing vibe. In retrospect, I don’t know why I didn’t use an un-pleated piece - I do not like a pleat at the back of my shirts, I don’t like anything billowing back there.

• I shortened the bodice to a blouse length that I will wear, plus I was cutting it close with my yardage (as drafted it is more of a tunic length) and I gave it a soft shirt tail shape at the hem.

I deviated from the pattern for the cuffs, most notably by hemming two sides of one of the ruffles. This makes the cuffs very lush!

GO YOUR OWN WAY:

• I followed the ruffle instructions closely until I got to the cuffs, where things got vague. I could see two different ways to construct the cuffs. I just made a decision and went with it. To maximize the ruffled effect, and make my life easier, I overlocked all 4 sides of one of the ruffle pieces, and used both of those sides as ruffles. This way, I wasn't trying to catch a lot of gathering in the seam connecting the cuff to the (also gathered) sleeve.

In the end, the pleat provides a nice level of interest to the back of the garment.

Per the pattern, this pleat is stitched down until about 3” below the neckline seam, and then released. That makes sense for a nightgown, but not for how I personally want to wear it.

If you look closely, you can see the edge stitching running on the vertical edges of the pleat.

I edge stitched the edges of the pleat at each place it folds because my fabric is too soft to otherwise hold the pleat. Then I stitched it down with decorative top stitching about 10” down from the neckline seam. It’s fine for me, but if I sew this again, I will eliminate the pleat completely (unless I make a nightgown….but I’ll likely stick with blouses).

WOULD I SEW IT AGAIN?

Do I need another one? Absolutely not! But I will probably make the other view, with the Y shaped neckline. I am a sucker for a ruffle, and these styles are very wearable for me.

CONCLUSION:

Wonderful, unique pattern. Definitely worth sewing, but take your time with the details.

XO, MARTHA

RUFFLES GALORE - FINISHED VINTAGE MCCALLS 9361